Video that greatly helps if you want to install subfloor by yourself.
May cost a lot but it will cost you more if you take this Home improvements. Better make these your priority.. Thank you for this article.
If you own a home, chances are you’ve got a long list of renovations and upgrades you’d like to do on it. (From painting to refinishing floors, it never ends!) When it comes to saving money and preserving the value of your home, however, some home improvements are more urgent than others. Here are three high-priority improvements you should consider doing as soon as possible.
First, let’s get this out of the way: these projects aren’t sexy or even fun. After you do them, you probably won’t be inviting friends over to marvel at the upgrades. They are, however, improvements that will save you the most money in the long run, just in terms of resale value and keeping your home from falling apart. (Because what’s the point of new granite countertops if your roof is leaking over them?) Once you’ve tackled these basic improvements, you can focus on the more fun kinds of upgrades like redoing the kitchen or adding on a bathroom.
Usually experts recommend insulating your home and sealing windows and doors as preparation for winter, but no matter when you take on these tasks, they’ll always pay off. By getting a good seal on your windows and doors (or replacing them with more insulated ones) and adding insulation in key areas like your attic, you’ll not only keep heat in when it’s cold out, but also keep your house cool during the other seasons. You’ll want to seal all the air leaks, both obvious and less obvious (like outlets and switches) for both a money-saving and a comfort upgrade.
Cost: Caulking and weatherstripping are two of the easiest projects, taking just 1-2 hours of your time and costing between $3 and $30 per window or door, according to Energy.gov. Plus, they also say that these improvements could save you 30% on your energy bill. (Americans, on average, spend about $2,000 a year on home energy costs.) Adding insulation is a project you can either do yourself or hire someone else to do (the average cost for insulation projects is $1,571, according to Home Advisor), but either way, the upgrade will pay for itself in just a few years.
If you change the entry door and replace windows, you’ll not only likely see energy improvements, you’ll also improve the look of your home and recoup much of the cost when it comes time to sell the house. Remodeling Magazine’s 2013 report says that changing the entry door has an 86% return on investment and replacing vinyl windows has a 71% return on investment. Not bad for both a cosmetic and energy-efficiency upgrade.
Keep in mind also many utilities will offer a free energy audit to help you identify where you can save money, and Energy Star also offers personalized energy-saving recommendations. You can even get tax credits for upgrading your insulation, windows and doors, air conditioning, and more.
In a similar vein, you’ll get the most bang for your home improvement buck if you upgrade inefficient appliances in your home. The top energy suckers in the home are: heating systems, air conditioning, hot water heaters, dehumidifiers, and refrigerators, according to Energy.gov.
There are easy ways to adjust the energy usage of these appliances, such as installing a programmable thermostat and running appliances at night. At some point, though, you’ll have to decide between repairing (or hacking) your home appliance or replacing it. Here’s our guide on which appliances are worth upgrading and when.
Cost: Varies, depending on which appliances you need to replace.
Water is often the cause of the most expensive home repairs, so while the snow is melting and the rainy season is approaching, it’s time to stop the leaks and control the water around our homes.
A few leaves and twigs in your gutter don’t sound that dangerous, but gutters are the first line of defense against: water problems in your basement, cracked foundations, rotten wood fascia, leaking roofs, wood-destroying insects, and other serious problems. So, first, clear the gutters or have a handyperson do it for you, and install gutter guards to prevent future water damage.
Now’s the time to also take a walk around your home and look for any foundation cracks, mold or mildew in the basement or other areas, loose shingles or other roof issues (a binocular helps), any other signs of water damage, and pest issues (like termites).
Cost: Professional gutter cleaning costs $182, on average, while repairing gutters and downspouts is $396. If you need your foundation repaired, the average national cost is $4,337. Repairing a roof costs $828 on average, but installing a roof is $6,774. (All figures from Home Advisor.)
Water-based problems are often costly to repair, but maintenance/prevention can be do-it-yourself cheap. DIY gutter cleaning, for example, costs only your time and comfort getting on a ladder.
These projects are mostly about regular inspections and upkeep—the stuff of homeownership. If your home doesn’t have drafts, your appliances are in tip-top shape, and you don’t have to worry about water issues or pests, you can next focus on other home improvement projects that will make your home more enjoyable to live in and/or sell. Going by Remodeling’s 2013 report, that includes a wood deck addition, minor kitchen remodel, attic bedroom addition, and basement remodel…but that’s up to you.
Shopping List for Repairing a Cracked Drywall Ceiling:
– 5/8-inch plywood
– construction adhesive
– wood shims
– 2-inch-wide painter’s tape
– fiberglass mesh tape
– joint compound
– 1 1/4-inch drywall screws
Tools for Repairing a Cracked Drywall Ceiling:
– drill/driver, fitted with 3/16-inch-diameter drill bit and 1-inch diameter spade bit
– drywall tip, for driving drywall screws to precisely the right depth
– caulk gun
– utility knife
– flat trowel and plaster hawk
There are three broad categories of historic building sites that are restored to its original form, function and design: documentary, representative or aesthetic.
When most of the original elements of an old building are still intact or parts of it are salvageable, a dynamic restoration technique is ideal.
Dynamic restoration is one of three restoration techniques. Dynamic restoration utilises the techniques of reconstruction by re-assembling or refurbishment.
While a static restoration focuses on repair and protection of the materials and structural components, a dynamic restoration focuses on restoring the building to its original form, function and design.
Some examples of dynamic restoration techniques are anastylosis, reprogrammed building and land uses, substitution, relocation and enclosing the structure.
Anastylosis utilises the techniques of reconstruction, re-assembling and refurbishing. Reconstruction is done by re-uniting some of the fallen fragments with the remaining portions still in their original places while other scattered fragments are left as is but already with preservative treatment.
Reprogramming buildings and land uses involve restoring the structure to its original form with its character remaining as is. The technique aims to recapture the ambiance and character of the past that the building and land uses are reprogrammed to fit these sites to modern times.
The designs and forms of the building are guided and controlled; some non-existing structures and features are reconstructed either partially or wholly to more clearly project the original characteristics of the structure.
Substitution is often necessary when the structural components are beyond repair. Although duplication is against the principles of restoration, it can be an exception in cases where an element of the original structure needs to be replaced to protect the structure from further deterioration.
The preservation action i.e replacement, is intended to halt deterioration and maintain the original structure’s existence, a compromise which is valid and justifiable. When replacement of some elements for the structure is unavoidable, the replacement should closely resemble the material being replaced.
In certain situations and as long as the structure is movable, relocation can be an alternative. Relocation is recommended when the structure is threatened with the danger of damage e.g. construction activity, vehicular traffic, floods or atmospheric pollution and there is no other way to protect it.
Enclosing the structure e.g. glass container, shade structure, fencing, to protect the structure from damage e.g weather conditions, is another dynamic restoration example.
A roof that is damaged can cause problems both inside and outside of your home. Leaks are a common symptom of a damaged roof. A leaking roof will provide the perfect breeding ground for mold. Mold is a potential dangerous problem that can cause serious health risks to all who are exposed to it and its spores. When mold is found, it should be dealt with as soon as possible to prevent further damage to your home and your health.
Before the mold process can begin, you must correct the leaky roof. If the leak is not fixed, the mold will continue to grow even after clean-up. Fixing the problem may be as simple as replacing the damaged shingles.
When working on a roof take all the necessary precautions to protect yourself. Make sure the ladder is secure and you are wearing shoes with good traction on the bottom to prevent slipping. Once you have gotten onto the roof, remove the damaged shingles by lifting the edges of the shingles and removing the nails. Before laying down the new shingles, prepare them by rounding their corners with a utility knife. This will make sliding the shingles back into place. Slide the shingle into place and secure with a 6D galvanized roofing nail at each corner. Use a putty knife to smear a dab of roof cement on each nail head.
Equip yourself with the proper safety items during the mold removal process. Anyone involved in the mold removal process needs to wear an N-95 respirator, rubber gloves, safety goggles without vent holes, a long-sleeve shirt and pants.
Discard any porous items that have been ruined by mold. Porous items, such as paper and drywall, cannot be cleaned and disinfected. These items will need to be discarded and replaced. Place the items in a garbage bag and secure closed. Place the bag outside.
Use a wet vacuum to remove any standing water that is present. Mix 1/4 cup of a mild dishwashing liquid and 1 gallon of warm water in a 5-gallon bucket. Remove as much mold as possible with a sponge saturated in the dishwashing liquid-water mixture. Apply an approved fungicide to the area. Follow all directions and warnings printed on the fungicide. Allow the area to dry completely. Point fans towards the area to aid in the drying process.
Building a deck is more complex than simply pouring a bit of concrete and nailing a few boards together. The options available for deck construction are constantly on the rise. Wood or plastic? If wood, what kind? What shape will the deck be? Should pressure treated wood be used? This article will help answer those questions and more.
The resistance to decay exhibited by plastic and metal decks has always been weighed against the aesthetic superiority of wood. This balance has traditionally tipped in wood’s favor, but new advancements in polymer design are quickly leveling the scale. Wood-plastic composites combine the best of both worlds and are constructed of recycled plastics and wood waste products (sawdust, bamboo, etc.). Common trade names for these composites are:
These plastic polymers have several advantages over wood. They include:
The disadvantages of wood metal composites include the tendency to deform in hot weather and, due to the porosity of the material, their susceptibility to staining by environmental elements.
The most commonly used decking woods are pressure treated pines. However, even after chemical treatment, pine is not as durable as other hardwoods. If the deck being built is of any considerable size, it is recommended that pine be used since some hardwoods can cost more than $50 per square foot. These more expensive woods include:
These woods are harder to shape than softwoods because of their density. Teak is incredibly expensive because it only grows in tropical climates and must be imported. That extra cost, though, comes with an increased durability and beauty rarely found in pressure treated pines. A summary of the costs of several dozen hardwoods can be found at Segmented Turning.
A metal deck constructed of aluminum will last far longer than either a plastic or wooden deck, but that durability comes at a steep price. When compared to wood, metal is cold and uninviting and can dampen the mood of any social or business gathering.
It is also incredibly reflective of sunlight and should be avoided if the deck is being built in a congested neighborhood, lest the neighbors be temporarily blinded after catching a glimpse of the afternoon sunlight glaring off the deck and crash through their garage door. However, if the deck is being built for purely utilitarian purposes (and none of those come to mind) metal may be the best choice.
Do not choose a decking material without considering the fact that it will form a large and conspicuous part of a property for a decade or more. It is a large investment that deserves dutiful research into the available materials and options.
The function of the roofing system is to drain rainwater through gutters put in place to make sure that the water from rooftops does not damage the foundation and the basement. Gutters and downspouts are fixed along the edges to serve this purpose. When the gutter system is clogged or damaged, water will not drain away and can lead to paddling leaks and structural damage. Gutters are to be cleaned and inspected at least twice a year.
Besides, you should also trim or cut down nearby trees for they can potentially clog the gutters. You have to be extra careful when using a ladder while trimming the trees. Make sure that the ladder is firmly positioned on an even ground to avoid falling off the ladder.
Begin the inspection by checking for loose gutters and downspouts. Ensure that all the gutter joints are firmly fixed. You may also need to check the spikes where you have attached your gutters to make sure that they are strong. Besides, you can check the downspouts for materials that can clog them and eliminate the dirt if any.
Checking for small animals that might reside on your gutters is also a great idea. Some creatures such as squirrels and termites might destroy your gutters. If you find such animals, you may need to get rid of them together with any leaves, twigs and debris in the gutters.
You can start by scooping leaves and debris from the gutters. Put the removed materials in a bucket securely placed to the ladder or drop them onto the ground. Flush smaller debris using a hose pipe since the fine material will be moved by pressured water.
Look for cracks beneath the gutters that could lead to leakages. If the water is not moving freely unclog the downspout and it is connected to the underground pipe, remove it from the pipe. Using a strong pressured hose to loosen the debris and it it fails to remove the debris you can use a plumber’s snake to break up the clog.
Look for standing watering the gutter. If the water is moving very slowly the problem might be that the slopes inadequate. Hangers require relocation up or down to create a slight slope towards the downspout.
While it’s true that no home can be truly fireproof, measures can be taken that will come close to reaching that ideal. Even structural steel beams will turn to spaghetti when exposed to sufficient heat. As an analogy, a water-resistant diver’s watch can’t survive the Mariana Trench but no damage is sustained during a normal dive.
Put simply, a fireproof exterior is simply one that isn’t combustible. Typical residential wood framing (“stick framing” in the industry) won’t stand up to a blaze. Even what’s referred to as a brick home is almost always a brick veneer home with wood studs behind the masonry.
Concrete is the most logical and inexpensive construction material to go with. There are two popular ways to go about this. The first is insulated concrete forms (ICFs). This is also a green, sustainable building practice that contributes to a LEED certification.
ICFs will withstand fires for up to 4 hours
The second exterior building material is the cinder block. These blocks are simply built up from the ground up by masons, in a manner similar to laying brick.
Both of these building practices also lend themselves to areas that are susceptible to hurricanes and tornadoes.
Roofing material is classified with fire ratings of Class A, Class B, and Class C, with A being the best. So what materials are good candidates in a fire? It depends. Some composition 3-tab shingles get a Class A rating with an estimated 30-year lifespan.
Clay and concrete barrel shingles (think Mediterranean-style) also have a Class A rating and are great for curb appeal and home resale value, but are more expensive. But, their lifespan far exceeds composition shingles.
Metal roofs also do well in fires, and like clay shingles, have a long lifespan. They can also reap a savings on homeowners insurance for protection both from fires and hail damage.
Although cinder block homes are sometimes simply primes and painted, ICF homes need siding. A good bet is a cement fiber product like those produced by Certain Teed and JamesHardie. Cement fiber products are also termite proof and rot proof.
This siding is also considered by the industry to be a green and sustainable building material and counts towards LEED certification. A major benefit is that it comes pre-primed, which eliminates the overhead and time taken to prepare for painting.
Building a fire and wind resistant home just makes good sense. Nobody wants to re-build from the ground up after a natural disaster.
New homeowners may want to paint the walls, upgrade the floors, or add more rooms to match their style. But they may not know how to get started. As a new homeowner, 25-year-old Anthony Ward explained during an in-person interview how he developed ideas, worked with contractors and saved money to create a home that fits his needs.
After purchasing his California home, Ward realized he needed to make several changes:
Additionally, he said he found some decorating ideas from various sources.
“I got ideas from looking at model homes, watching “House Hunters” on HGTV, and reading magazines such as Better Homes and Gardens,” Ward said.
He said he hired three contractors to complete the job¬–a general contractor who renovated the interiors such as the kitchen, dry wall, and electric; a plumber; and a separate contractor who laid the flooring.
Finding a contractor was not a difficult task. “I looked through the PennySaver and received references from family members,” Ward said. He chose contractors based on the following criteria:
Once the contractors were chosen, he said he sat down with them and drafted a written contract which contained the following information:
Ward noted that some homeowners may pay contractors half of the payment at the start and pay the other half when the work is completed, but he warned if contractors leave suddenly without finishing the work, they would have half of the homeowner’s money.
“I pay everybody in three payments–a starting payment, a middle payment, and then a completion payment,” Ward said.
He said the contracts state whether the materials are included. In his case, the general contractor, plumber, and electrician included the materials in their prices, whereas the contractor laying the tile did not.
For Ward, buying the materials saved him money.
“It was cheaper to buy the materials myself and to pay for the labor,” he said. That way, he said he could keep any unused materials.
However, when contractors include materials in the contract, the homeowner may lose money. Ward explained that if $300, for instance, is budgeted to complete the work and the contractor only spends $260, the homeowner is out $40. But he added that many contractors go over the spending limit, which would be the contractor’s responsibility.
Every homeowner’s renovating experience will be different. However, if they determine the necessary fixes, find the right contractor, and fully understand the terms of the renovation, homeowners will feel more confident and be a step closer to living in their dream home.
There are three situations where a homeowner can move in the lower carbon footprint direction. The first is when a new home is in the design phase and the second is when a remodeling project is in the works.
The third situation is when a more economical “eco-creep” strategy is being implemented. Eco-creep is when the homeowner makes smaller incremental changes, such as changing incandescent bulbs out to CFLs (Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs).
It’s all good when environment-friendly construction policy is followed. Here are a few key benefits:
There are four basic categories of consideration when choosing sustainable construction materials. These are indoor air quality, energy efficiency, resource efficiency, and water conservation. Is it possible to satisfy every point 100%? Probably not. The important thing is to make the best compromise possible when the need arises.
There are two key points to consider here. The first is implementing systems that conserve water to begin with. Low-flow shower heads are a good example. Low-flow toilets are a good idea and mandated in the USA. The current standard in the USA is 1.6 gallons per flush (GPF).
The second point is to conserve water by using existing water wisely. Reclaim rain water by routing the flow from the rain gutter downspout to the landscaping.